The Mohawk River as it winds through New York's Capital District has much to offer the paddler: varying scenery, history, much diverse wildlife & geological interest. Humans have settled the Mohawk Valley as far back as 3,000 years ago - what I would give to go back just 500 years and paddle the river as it was then before the white man started making his mark. 150 miles long and the only natural passage west through the Appalachians the Mohawk River (and the Erie Canal) became an important trade route to the west. The old Erie Canal used to run alongside of the river but the modern Erie Canal is on the actual river and is part of the New York State Barge Canal system (www.canals.state.ny.us) - dams keep the water deep enough for motorboat travel and locks allow passage past the dams. Canoes and kayaks are allowed to go through the locks although it may be a good idea to notify the lockmaster of your intentions ahead of time. These days the river is a balance between industrialized civilization, recreation and nature yet has much to offer the kayaker or canoeist and fishermen are attracted by the smallmouth bass and tiger muskie populations. Water quality is class A - suitable for swimming and as a source of water for municipalities.
Please respect other users of the river. Steer clear of fishermen and don't forget that their lines go well out into the water. Stay close to shore when motorboats are out. The red and green buoys mark the deep water channel - stay between the buoys and shore to avoid potential collision.
Described below is the 27 mile section of the river from Lock 9 in Rotterdam Junction to Lock 6 in Waterford. Mileages are given from lock to lock going downstream. Right and left always refer to the shores when looking downstream - the south shore always being on the right and the north shore on the left.
Lock 7 to Lock 6:
The first 4 or 5 miles of this 11 mile section are particularly scenic and the wildlife is quite diverse. One often sees red-tailed hawks soaring above, great blue herons, Canada geese, snowy and great egrets, red-winged blackbirds, swallows, sandpipers, gulls, cormorants, mallards and other ducks, beaver, muskrats and white-tail deer. The observant (and possibly lucky) paddler may also spot bald eagles, osprey, nighthawks, bitterns, green herons, snapping and painted turtles. Carp may bump into your boat in the shallows. The Vischer Ferry Nature Preserve runs for 4 miles along the north shore and the south shore is lightly developed. It is possible to launch below Lock 7 from Lock 7 Park - from the parking lot you will need to carry your boat 150 yards over the grass to a small tributary. The Lock 7 Dam is impressive from below. Rocky Goat Island bisects the dam.
On the left 0.9 miles below Lock 7 is Ferry Rd (off Riverview Rd) in Vischer Ferry. There is a small parking area - it is possible to launch here but the bank is steep and the water's edge is rough. A rope ferry was started here in 1790 by Eldert Vischer and a toll bridge had a short existence from 1900 thrugh 1902. Niska Isle, site of an old Indian village, comprises the south shore - not an island but more of a peninsula with several homes. It is possible to launch at the end of Ferry Road (off Rosendale Rd) in Niskayuna but the river's edge is usually either muddy or rocky. Rounding the tip of Niska Isle a back bay stretches to the northwest. The Lisha Kill enters this bay and it is possible to paddle up the stream a short distance; if a beaver dam does not deter your progress then a downed tree probably will a short distance further.
Below the point of Niska Isle are 3 islands which I unoficially call Goose, Hawk and Eagle Islands after certain avian life I've seen on them; the upstream island is actually named Marite Damen Island. At the 2.3 mile mark, the Niskayuna Hamlet Railroad Station (at Lions or Railroad Station Park off Rosendale Rd) is seen on the right. I launch here often in spring but in summer mats of invasive water chestnut clog the open water and make access to the main river channel extremely difficult. Past the third island there is a shallow bay to the south which can be paddled in spring before the water chestnut grows in - this is a favorite haunt of the snapping turtle.
Shaker Creek is passed on the right at 4.0 miles. Soon after is the site of Forts Ferry, another rope ferry which began operation in 1728. At 5.5 miles there is an island close to the north shore. To the island's northeast one can sometimes paddle through the shallow bay and access the old Erie Canal. If you take a left at the canal you will soon reach Clute's Dry Dock where there is a little-used ill-conceived dock which is too high for kayaks & most canoes. Exploration of the old Erie Canal is best in spring with its higher water levels.
The Delphus Kill is on the right at 5.9 miles and one reaches the Thaddeus Kosciuszko Bridge (the "twin bridges" of I-87) at 6.4 miles. Colonie Mohawk River Park (formerly Colonie Town Park) is soon seen on the right. Planning for the future of the Town of Colonie's 10 miles of Mohawk River waterfront is being spearheaded by Mohawk River Community Partners (www.colonie.org/mohawk), a non-profit goup formed to promote the revitalization of Colonie's waterfront. Several islands and the south shore have rugged rocky shores before reaching the Crescent Bridge (Rt.9) at 9.4 miles. Just past the bridge on the right is Freddie's Park, a small park on Albany Marine Service Lane and a decent place to launch.
Continuing downstream one passes the Colonie Landfill on the right and one will find the the north shore to be more attractive. Canal Park (at the end of Flight Road, off Washington Ave/Fonda Rd Rt.97) is on the left before the Crescent Dam and Lock 6 - this is a good place to launch all types of boats.
Rich Macha ©2007
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Paddling the Urban Wilderness - The Confluence of the Mohawk & Hudson Rivers
The Mohawk River, throughout much of its length, has been tamed by the judicious placement of dams creating a deepwater route which is part of the Erie Canal system. Shortly before ending its course to the Hudson River the Mohawk makes a spectacular 90' drop over Cohoes Falls then splits into three branches of rapids going around two major islands (Peebles and Van Schaick) and several other small ones. Peebles Island is now a state park; Van Schaick Island is mostly a residential section of Cohoes. The five plus miles of the Hudson River between the Federal Lock and Dam in Troy and Lock 1 to the north with side-trips into the Mohawk's branches makes for an interesting paddle by canoe or kayak - throw in some wildlife and much history and you have one of the Capital District's finest paddling destinations.
It is best to launch in Waterford at the south end of First St. where there is a state boat ramp next to Battery Park or across the Hudson at a boat ramp on 123rd St. in Lansingburgh. Before putting in, take a walk along the wharf over to the Waterford Harbor Visitor Center where you can learn some Erie Canal and tugboat history. A pair of fisherman, when told that I was writing an article, informed me, tongue in cheek, that the fishing is poor around here. A flatwater outing of up to 12 miles is possible - spend an hour or several hours exploring. Starting at Battery Park, the north end of the 156 mile Hudson River Greenway Watertrail which ends at Battery Park in New York City, go west on the North Branch of the Mohawk past the tug Chancellor, which is in the process of being restored, then under the North Bridge to Peebles Island, a 670' double-span steel-truss bridge built in 1913 for the D & H Railroad, which has recently been reopened as a one-lane road bridge allowing for access to the state park from the Waterford side. Lock 2 of the Erie Canal system is seen on the right and the wooded shore of Peebles Island steepens into cliffs on one's left. After half a mile, Mohawk Paper Mill is on the right and the rocky mass of Polrump Island splits the river - you can't go far to the left of the island before things get too shallow; to the right one can paddle a bit further before a dam crosses the river. Note that in spring and other times of high water the current can be quite strong here. Turn back around and paddle back to the Hudson River and keep going right around Peebles' northeast corner where there is a viewing platform and a rentable pavillion. Keep an eye out for beavers, cormorants, great blue herons, geese, mallards and other ducks.
Passing under the South Bridge to Peebles Island (Delaware Ave.) into the Middle Branch a large brick building is seen on the right - this now houses the headquarters of the State Bureau of Historic Sites and Bureau of Historic Preservation Field Services but once was the bleachery for Cluett & Peabody's shirt manufacturing operations. Van Schaick Island is on your left. The water in late summer/early fall is very clear and zebra mussels and the occasional fish can easily be seen - the leaves of Virginia creeper turn a bright red. Very little development is seen as one approaches Whirlpool Falls (also known through the years as Little Cohoes, Buttermilk, Little or Horseshoe Falls.) Only a few feet of a drop, the falls are nevertheless impressive both in times of low and high water. Facing the falls, the left (van Schaick) cliff wall has been cut out by high waters and, in fact, in spring a whirlpool is often witnessed below - paddling near the whirlpool should be left to the experts. The right (Peebles) shale cliff wall rises 60' above the river - during low water it is possible to land below the cliff next to the falls. Wild columbine often grows in the crevices.
Peebles Island has quite a history. The site of a Mahican village up to the early 1600's, it became a Dutch settlement late that century. Goosen Gerritsen van Schaick, a brewer, may have grown hops here. During the Revolutionary War, Thaddeus Kosciusko built up breastworks (earthen fortifications) to guard against a possible attack by the British from the north - some of the breastworks can still be seen. There are 3 miles of trails on the island if you need to stretch your legs.
Return to the Hudson and make a right going downstream alongside Van Schaick Island. The Matton Shipyard, opened in 1916 to take advantage of the canal market and now part of the state park, is soon passed. The South Branch of the Mohawk River is reached about a mile and a half downstream of the Middle Branch. How far you can paddle up it depends a lot on water level and your energy level. In low water things soon become too shallow and in high water there is a strong current to paddle against. Paddling further south on the Hudson past narrow Jan Gowsen Island one sees the Troy Lock and Dam. It is best, though, to turn back upstream. The east shore is heavily developed. Passing the launch spot, one paddles under the Rt.4 bridge. "HOLLYWOOD"-style, the words "WATERFORD" "NEW YORK" are set into the west bank on either side of the bridge and Canada geese may be seen gathering here. North of the bridge Routes 4 & 32 are close to the west shore. On the east side, woods dominate over light development and small cliffs are passed as the river doglegs right then left. An alternate gravel launch spot is passed at Marion Av. in Pleasantdale, the historical site of Lansings Ferry. Shores become wooded and relatively steep a mile before Lock 1. The observant paddler may catch a glimpse of an osprey or a pair of bald eagles; common nighthawk is another protected species found here. Nearing the lock, General Electric's silicones plant is to the left but is somewhat shielded by trees. Campbell Island and several smaller state-owned islands demand exploration. There is a dock on Campbell and a picnic lunch here would be a great idea. Area woods are comprised of cottonwoods, oaks, maples and the occasional sycamore. Soon passing Thieves Hollow, the Kool Kill and a hidden waterfall, paddle the east shore back to your put-in with a slight help from the current.
On summer weekends expect a fair amount of motorized traffic on the Hudson. I prefer early mornings and weekday evenings when things are quieter - spring and fall are great times to visit. On a recent fair September Thursday morning I was the only boat out on the water. Stay close to shore to avoid the deepwater channel along which motorboats will generally be travelling. The EPA's dredging of PCBs in the Hudson River may affect the paddling experience over the next few years but, I believe, Mother Nature always wins out in the long run.
OTHER PLACES TO PADDLE IN THE CAPITAL REGION:(a work in progress)
